Brunch the Third: Sweet Potato Biscuits

      When I first started this blog, my idea was to write about, well, writing. Because I'm a wanna-be novelist. I want to write something good, and I want it to get published, and I want enough people to like it that I get to publish more. I don't really care about the money, and I can be flexible on how long it takes; I just want the quality to be there.
      Ok, you may be asking yourself, Where exactly does all this food come in? Because cooking (and eating) is my other passion, and I also believe that food offers great insight into characters, cultures, and even plot twists. So there are a number of scenes in my stories that involve eating. And sometimes my characters are eating things that I don't usually eat, or things I haven't eaten in a long time, so I get to make and eat those things as research!
      My current project takes place in mid-19th century California. At this point in history, the European gentry and American aristocrats were into the habit of breakfasting late and light, on buttered toast and tea. This was not an option for the pioneers, homesteaders and cattle ranchers--their lifestyle simply didn't permit it. Thus, the hearty American breakfast was born: eggs, bacon, fried potatoes, steak, cornbread with molasses, fried onions, bread, cheese, hot cereal, ham, biscuits, sausage, grits, gravy, hash...mix and match all of the above, and add enough coffee to kill a chihuahua. In those days, these meals made sense because the daily work was so intense people literally burned through that many calories before their next meal (also, their next meal might not be until dinner). For most modern Americans, a diet of this proportion would be an express, one-way ticket to obesity. That's why balance and portion control is key...and a few little flavor twists never hurt anything, either. Hence, our entry today on Sweet Potato Biscuits!
      This is a nice way to use leftover baked sweet potatoes (aka yams). Sweet potatoes are very healthy for you, and they're available all year long, but I particularly like them in the winter when their bright color presents a cheery contrast to the dreary view, and the long baking time for the tubers helps me heat my kitchen. These biscuits can be sweet or savory, depending on how you top them. The raw biscuits can also be frozen, and popped directly from your freezer into the oven, making them a good stand-by for weekdays when you want something fresh and hot, but don't have the time to go through the full hassle. My recipe is based on one from Dorie Greenspan (that goddess of baked goods), with a couple small twists to better suit my palate. I'm also including suggestions on what to serve with, since one biscuit does not a breakfast make.

Z.D.'s Sweet Potato Biscuit Breakfast

Ingredients:
2 Cups all-purpose flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8th teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 Tablespoons golden brown sugar
1/2 Cup unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
3 Tablespoons salted butter, cut into small pieces
1 & 1/2 Cup baked sweet potato, finely mashed (but not puréed), divided

Directions:
 - Preheat your oven to 425º F, and place a rack in the center level. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt and ground nutmeg. Sprinkle in the brown sugar, and whisk that in as well.


 - Using your finger tips, cut in the butter. When you have some pieces as small as sand, and the larger ones no larger than a lentil, you're done.

 - Using a fork, stir in 3/4 Cup of the mashed sweet potato. Keep adding heaping spoonfuls of potato until your mixture if fairly orange, and a handful squishes and holds together easily.

 - Turn out the dough (it will still be crumbly) onto a clean work surface, and knead it until it comes together. Don't worry about over-kneading, these biscuits will be surprisingly light. Pat out your dough to about 3/4 inch thickness. Use a 2" diameter biscuit cutter and cut straight down, then twist slightly to cut out biscuits. Pat the scraps back together, pat out into 3/4 inch thickness, and continue until all dough is used.

 - Space your biscuits very close but not quite touching. This will help them rise. Pop them into the oven for 16 - 19 minutes. They will be almost done when you start to smell them, and finished when the edges start to brown.
Space your raw biscuits almost touching--this will help them rise more as they bake!
      As I said earlier, these biscuits can be either sweet or savory depending on how you serve them. They are moist enough they don't really require butter, but of course that's a topping option. For sweet, I like these with a touch of honey, apple butter, or whipped maple cream if you have any on hand. For savory, these are great with a little melted cheese (I like swiss), or spread with a bit of honey-mustard and make ham sandwiches.
      Even if you're not doing the sandwich, of all the breakfast meats I do like ham the best with these. I like to serve them with a bit of ham, Company Eggs, and a few cherry tomatoes.* No breakfast is complete for me without tea or coffee, and I like this biscuits best with unflavored black tea. Also, breakfast requires fresh, seasonal fruit. I recommend no fruit in particular, because depending on when you make these different ones may be in season. If you're unsure, I recommend you ask the grocer stocking the produce department--the fresher and more in-season, the more delicious it will be!
Now THAT's how to start the day!


*Tomatoes and eggs is a very British thing, and I picked up the habit when I spent a week at a B&B in London. Try it--it's a great way to add just a little more produce to your breakfast.

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